Attention Clayton: KLR question

[Nikon]

"So I did the doo and I also adjusted the carb while doing it. I have a supertrapp slip on with a K&N air filter and I did the 2 #4 washers on the needle and backed the screw out 2 turns. After doing all this my gas mileage dropped about 10mpg and the bike is hesitating. Low end is fine but when I get to 55-65 at steady rpms the bike just doesn't want to go (like getting hit with a wind blast from the front on and off). Before this, I could do 75-80 without issue. It also surges a bit in other gears, hard to describe but it's like it goes-hesitate-go-hesitate like a rocking back and forth.

Thoughts? Need to back out that screw a little more for some more fuel into the engine?"

So I posted this on klr650.net and got 1 response telling me to take out a washer b/c he thought I was runnin rich. I did that today and rode into work tonight. It's a little better but still not right. The "How To" on klr650.net says to back the pilot screw out :

FOR PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT:
(Recommended for all years 1987-2008. Setting is from fully seated.)
1.75 turns for a stock KLR650
2 to 2-1/4 turns for most aftermarket exhausts
2-1/2 turns for high flow "straight through" exhausts

I backed it out 2 turns. Should I go to 2 1/4 or 2.5 turns? remove the other washer? What are your thoughts?

[AimlessMoto]

We had a slight issue like this when my dad put a K&N in his KLR650... Sounds like you, on the other hand, are running SUPER SUPER RICH...

First:

The washers on the needle only affect throttle response in the low-end and ultimately forces the bike to run richer at WOT. The number of washers also affects where you power-band will kick in. Typically stock KLRs will get a little smoother around 3 to 3.5k rpm... once moving the needle up, this moves the power-band up to about 3.75k to 4.5k rpm. The mix screw needs to balance out fuel and air for the new position of the needle... throw as many washers in there as you please, you'll only create a rich situation that the mix needle needs to compensate for.

Regardless of washers, 1 or 2... this is the way to ensure you're running true across the whole RPM range. This is a good way to test and re-test if you install a K&N or exhaust or anything else.

The only way to get the turn outs correct on the mix screw is to do it while the bike is running.

1. Screw idle screw in all the way, then back it out to 1/4 turn.
2. Start bike, warm it up, turn choke off, set idle at 1000 rpm.
3. Back screw out until the idle stops climbing.
4. Once stopped climbing, come out 1/4 turn more. Re-set idle at 1000rpm.
5. Blip throttle hard and let it snap back on the return spring.

6A. If the tach hesitates on the way up, you're lean, keep unscrewing 1/4 turn at a time until it rises smoothly.

6B. If the tach hesitates resting back on idle (is slow to return or has flat spots hanging up on the way down) you're rich, screw in 1/4 turn at a time until it falls smoothly.

7. If you've got the bike as close to balanced as possible but it still hangs up a little on the way up or down, or if the carb is either WAY rich, or WAY lean, you'll need to rejet. Plain and simple.

This method should get you in the ball-park. Now... if you want to be SURE of where you're at for turns, simply begin screwing in the screw 1/2 turn at a time, keeping track of the turns... that way once you bottom the screw out you know how many to come back out to return to that setting.

You may also want to (before you even try this) grab a can of starting fluid and spray around the boots to the airbox, intake, and even around the top of the carb WHILE the bike is running... If you notice any jumps or boggs in idle, you've got an air leak and that should be addressed before moving forward.

Hope this helps!

[Nikon]

That does help. Thanks

When you say idle screw are you talking about the long one on the side that is accessible and "finger tightenable" or are you talking about the air fuel mix screw that you have to drill out to get to? I'm guessing the air fuel one.

Funny thing...on KLR650.net the instructions say to back out the air/fuel mix screw 2 - 2.25 turns. Marknet says 3/4 - 1 turn...That's such a huge variance and marknet shows a K&N filter in there too. If 3/4 - 1 is right that would explain the problem...

[richw]

Finger turn screw is idle adjustment raises the slide

CHECK FLOAT LEVEL

espescially if you have been in the float bowl or man handled the carb in any way

Also make sure carb is really seated and zero airleaks can be checked with unlit
propane torch idle goes up when propane is sucked in

Is there a TPS on the KLR ?

How oil soaked is the K&N could be spraying oil into the carb

[Nikon]

K&N isn't soaked. Been in there a couple of years, I've re-seated/sealed it but it hasn't changed since before the carb adjust.

I'll have to check the seals for leaks. It's seated right but that's not to say that there isn't a leak somewhere. Floats ok, no problems there.

[Nikon]

Now I'm more confused than ever.....

Alright,

What happened is you WAY richened up your fuel mixture. Common thought is go richer on the needle. This is a big mistake for alot of bikes.

YOURS especially. No 1, a K&N flows less air, which means your bike will run richer. Now with your exhaust, you need to go even leaner than normal.

My advise is to return the needle back to stock position, and drop one or two sizes on the main jet. This should make a huge difference in the preformance and mileage of you bike.

good luck!!

P.S. After you get the base jetting pretty good, THEN adress your mixture screw.

[Kurlon]

The air mix screw is really just for closed throttle operation, so adjust it so the bike idles and responds well to the initial hit of throttle.

How much throttle are you using when it's having trouble? That'll tell you if you need to play with the needle, or the mainjet, or both...

[Nikon]

The air mix screw is really just for closed throttle operation, so adjust it so the bike idles and responds well to the initial hit of throttle.

How much throttle are you using when it's having trouble? That'll tell you if you need to play with the needle, or the mainjet, or both...

at or above 4g in all gears

[TheIglu]

Spend the $30 and get the DynoJet Stage 1+3 kit. Comes with a bigger main, new needle and is a no-fuss operation. I did mine at the recommended settings and it runs like a champ with no fiddling.

It does sound like you are too rich though, pull one washer out and if that helps, you are on your way to finding out which way you need to keep going.

[Nikon]

Spend the $30 and get the DynoJet Stage 1+3 kit. Comes with a bigger main, new needle and is a no-fuss operation. I did mine at the recommended settings and it runs like a champ with no fiddling.

It does sound like you are too rich though, pull one washer out and if that helps, you are on your way to finding out which way you need to keep going.

all i can find is the 1+2 for 65$????

[TheIglu]

Find one on Ebay or on the KLR650 forums.

[Nikon]

Find one on Ebay or on the KLR650 forums.

Fleabay they're 50-55 and there are no 1&3 just 1&2. I actually have Chris (FTMS) ordering me up a stage 2. Hopefully that will cure my problems....