2006 Daytona Track-day Build

[JettaJayGLS]

Okay folks. After purchasing this bike from Tim, who purchased it from Q, its time for me to finally have a reliable track day steed. Not looking to spend the majority of my weekends sitting on the garage floor as I did every single race weekend on the motard.

It needs too much work to be a competitive race machine, so that is out of the question. Granted, if I get through all the lists below, I think it could be a decently competitive machine.

So far I've scoured ebay and triumph675.net and picked up a replacement rear subframe and a replacement speedo. Subframe was bent, left side of the speedo was broken. The prices were right, I bought em.

Here is the short list of what it needs:
-Nothing. It is turnkey, I can go do a track day tomorrow, honestly I could get this thing through tech and go race it.

Here is the smart list, that may be able to be done this year:
-Pirellis
-Engine covers
-Rear-sets
-Levers
-Clip-ons
-Spool Sliders
-Set sag, adjust clickers
-Frame geometry assessment (Peter Kates, feel free to chime in and make me spend all my money)
-I want to get rid of the ignition and go to a on/off switch

Here is the desired list (maybe next year):
-Aftermarket fork internals
-New Rear Shock
-Someone on triumph675.net suggested the attack racing rear linkage. Anyone know anything about that?

Here is the DO NOT NEED BUT WANT list:
-Triple clamps
-New slip-on (currently it has a generic carbon fiber can)
-Paint

Anything I'm missing? Any other quick, easy things I am not thinking of?

Let's focus on the smart list. I am partial to woodcraft. I went on the website and they don't seem to offer engine covers anymore...so used it is. But honestly if the right deals pop up for other brands, I wouldn't not get them. All I know is that woodcraft spares are plentiful at the track, and I'd love to support the brand that has done so much for LRRS and motorcycle racing in general.

For Levers I'd be going with some from Michael Weyant. Expect an order.

As for the frame geometry assessment, I figured it couldn't hurt. I know the front end on these bikes are a disaster. The aftermarket triple clamps are the answer, but not really in my budget at the moment. I heard that adjusting the height of the forks in the triple can help. Is there some proof behind this? I figured PK would know the answer. Also, the bike currently has a 190 conti on the rear and I'll be switching to 180 pirellis, so I need the right set-up for those. Speaking of the Pirellis, this is for track-days, so DOT will be the way to go. Kurtz, hopefully I'll be doing a Tony's day soon, so we can chat and I'll pre-order and pick up a set there based on your recommendation.

Disabling the ignition and putting an on/off switch. Any good write-ups on this? I just want that complexity out of there.

Thanks folks, I'm excited to be back on a Daytona and hit the track again. More importantly, see my friends.

[union]

If you start going fast you WILL need triple clamps. Might as well put that in the must have column.

[Viper897]

For that year triumph you will need the aftermarket triple clamps. My friend has an 07-08 675 and that was one of the first things he changed for the track. Iirc it's a safety thing as much as it's a performance thing due to the stock geometry being not right for going fast.

[JettaJayGLS]

Define fast...as in lap times at Loudon.

James, are you guys able to get the the triple clamps? Or am I better off bringing them to you?

I used to own an 07, which I had on the track. At my slow pace back then I had a ton of fun. But, if I can't safely dip into the teens at Loudon without them, that is not good.

I haven't been on a middleweight in YEARS, its possible I will be very very slow for a long time.

[tsorfas]

If you start going fast you WILL need triple clamps. Might as well put that in the must have column.

How the triple clamps have an affect on the geometry/suspension?
I am asking because I really have no clue.

[Viper897]

You'll have to ask PK as to what the specific fast time threshold is but it's better to be safe than sorry. My assumption would be anything mid pack intermediate and above you will definently want them. Attack triples are the way to go.

Tsorfas, the triples affect geometry in a few ways. The ones for the 675 from attack have adjustable offset by the use of inserts, this will affect the trail numbers on the bike. Some triples even allow for rake angle changes but this isn't seen on a lot of them as that gets into using offset bearing races And eccentric style inserts to allow stem bearings to function properly. Most bikes don't need the adjustable triples, but the 675 in the 06 to 11 range do, after that there was a geometry change. Again PK knows more of the specifics as I am just stating this info based on my friends bike.

[union]

Define fast...as in lap times at Loudon.

James, are you guys able to get the the triple clamps? Or am I better off bringing them to you?

I used to own an 07, which I had on the track. At my slow pace back then I had a ton of fun. But, if I can't safely dip into the teens at Loudon without them, that is not good.

I haven't been on a middleweight in YEARS, its possible I will be very very slow for a long time.

I think we can get them. I don't know if we are making them or not. There was plans for it not that long ago. I would suggest calling Pete and asking where he is with those. I also think attack makes a set.

How the triple clamps have an affect on the geometry/suspension?
I am asking because I really have no clue.

The Triumph has a high offset clamp. I don't know off hand what it is, somewhere in the 30mm or larger range. With the way the bike is made the trail is reduced too much. With reduced trail the bike tends to lack front end feel and stability in corners which will lead to tucking the front. Clamps that are made for the triumph have a reduced offset which increases trail which in turn increases stability in the corner as well as feel and feedback.

[JettaJayGLS]

How the triple clamps have an affect on the geometry/suspension?
I am asking because I really have no clue.

From the factory, the 06-08 (maybe 06-11) have too little trail...so when you lean them over you get very little feel/response. Crashes happen fast and completely un-announced.

[Mr. Kurtz]

Here is the smart list, that may be able to be done this year:
-Pirellis
Kurtz, hopefully I'll be doing a Tony's day soon, so we can chat and I'll pre-order and pick up a set there based on your recommendation.


Thanks folks, I'm excited to be back on a Daytona and hit the track again. More importantly, see my friends.

[RacerXnh10]

A lot of guys have had good luck with the linkage plates. The provide a more linear travel on the rear suspension allowing you to use more of it. For $150 ballpark you could get the linkage plates and a properly weighted spring and be a lot better off. Search 'Flux Plates' on the Triumph forum, plenty of discussion over there. Rider's Discount also has a much more expensive set they use on the competition bikes if you want to spend the $$

On the front end its pretty unanimous that you want to push the forks down as far as you feel comfortable if you don't have the $$ for clamps. Some of the real animals even went a bit past flush.

[JettaJayGLS]

A lot of guys have had good luck with the linkage plates. The provide a more linear travel on the rear suspension allowing you to use more of it. For $150 ballpark you could get the linkage plates and a properly weighted spring and be a lot better off. Search 'Flux Plates' on the Triumph forum, plenty of discussion over there. Rider's Discount also has a much more expensive set they use on the competition bikes if you want to spend the $$

On the front end its pretty unanimous that you want to push the forks down as far as you feel comfortable if you don't have the $$ for clamps. Some of the real animals even went a bit past flush.

Yeah, Rider's discount wants $309...$150 sounds WAY better.

[RacerXnh10]

The guy making the flux plates was sub $100 when I bought mine. An Eibach spring runs about $80. Pretty short $$ comparatively.

[island boyeee]

Ok, I have tons of info on Triumphs since I've had mine for over 4 years and have read just about everything on them. Last year I finally sprung to get an aftermarket TTX36 rear shock with proper spring (used shock from Rider's old race bike) and had forks refreshed with a much larger air gap than stock. This year, I also sprung for the Attack linear linkage plates, since I had the bike apart, and knew I was going to be getting faster.

The Attack triples are pretty much a must, and are on my list, but at roughly $600............ I just dropped the forks to be flush with the upper triple for the time being (recommended by many, including TJ from Rider's).


As far as parts, I have:

-Flux MKII linkage plates
-Pazzo black w/ gold adjust brake lever (regular length. have clutch too but the bowl kind of ate it up)
-GB Racing clutch cover (right side). will give you rashed stator cover with purchase.
-Eibach red spring with collars to fit OEM shock, 475lb spring I believe (what's your weight?)
-Speedohealer V4
-full set of chinese street fairings, black w/ grey/white graphics on nose and part of sides.
-OEM stator cover, painted black.

plus a bunch of other random bits and pieces. Just did a frame swap so if you need something I may have it.

[scottieducati]

Triples you gotta have Jay. I never quite got that bike sorted (I had an 06) but I was pretty close. Around low :20's and there's just no feel in the front when pushing, especially at Loudon which is a very front-end biased track. They will transform the bike, and very well may save you from a stupid lowside from lack of feel, so they're cheaper than crash repair

[Paul_E_D]

Hmmm, I think I posted a similar thread about a year ago? Anyway, my .02 is that you start with the triples and go from there. No sense setting the bike up a few times to eventually end up here. I did penske valving up front, which is more than good enough for my pace. I have a penske shock, with a bunch of ride height dialed in. I can't comment on stock except to say that it is too short.

I haven't tried any linear linkage solution to date, but I haven't reached the potential of my current setup, so... bottom of the list IMO. That said, I have a linkage to test and will try it soon.

I use attack rearsets, but would prefer woodcraft.

Optimal bodywork is plenty good enough and priced right.

The bike has plenty of power with the stock map and a pipe.

What else?

Just ride it!

[Paul_E_D]

Oh, and a really sweet addition is the STM slipper. That would go to #2 on my list. This bike is busy as hell in a hard breaking zone and the slipper quiets that down a LOT.

so:
1. -3 offset triples forks 4mm recessed
2. Shock
3. Slipper
4. profit

[JettaJayGLS]

Riders discount priced me out at $750 for the triples. Is it worth installing these myself and running them, or handing it over to GMD with new tires, and letting them figure it out. I have almost no experience with tuning the suspension on the middle weight, and do not really know where to start with this bike, that is my concern. It is also my concern that I will wind up spending way too much money on getting it dialed, when in the end of the day it is a track day bike. If I get the triples and all the suspension done, I have a race bike.

I weigh 160. I honestly assume this will go down as my cycling hours increase further with this nice weather. I'd say 155 if a good estimate, but I wouldn't be surprised if I drop below 150 by the end of the summer. I do not know what that translates into for which spring I should get. Again, this was why I was going to give the bike to GMD.

It appears that the first thing on my list should be the triples...but I feel like I should try getting the protective bits first (rear-sets and engine covers). At least I'll have a good shot at being able to survive a low side with those.

On the other hand, if I get the triples, the low-side will be less likely to occur. But if I just throw suspension bits and new tires at this bike, I could be making things worse. Then again, I have no idea how close it is as it sits.

Tricky situation. Maybe I just leave suspension as is and buy lots of track days. Then again, I don't want to do track days on a bike I'm going to continue to crash.

[CEO]

We all know you're going to race this thing anyways eventually.... just admit it LOL

Definitely don't skimp on the front end work on that bike... thing needs trail, and bad. Go for the triples, springs and valves in the front.

Keep your eyes peeled for a rear shock on wera or whatever and then just get a spring swap and service at the same time, should be good to go.

I would put rearsets on for riding position and crashability, but you can wait on the case covers for now. If you crash and they get damaged, then get the aftermarkets. They're required for racing but not for TDs.

Same goes for clipons and levers... no need to get them yet, wait til you trash the stockers.

[Paul_E_D]

I would definitely go ahead and put the triples on yourself to get started. I didn't do valving my first season. The forks are OK once you have the triples. Stock springs will be perfect for you actually. Much better money spent than sliders and crap. OK for you goals I can revise my list:

1. triples
2. tires
3. trackdays

Easy peasy.

[JettaJayGLS]

I would definitely go ahead and put the triples on yourself to get started. I didn't do valving my first season. The forks are OK once you have the triples. Stock springs will be perfect for you actually. Much better money spent than sliders and crap. OK for you goals I can revise my list:

1. triples
2. tires
3. trackdays

Easy peasy.

I believe the forks are shock are in good shape. From what I was told, Q had these freshened up pretty much annually. I am more concerned with getting the geometry right, especially switching from a 190 conti to a 180 pirelli. I can play with clickers to get the suspension close for now...under the assumption that the suspension is relatively fresh to begin with.

Those triples are pricey, but coincidentally, I sold what was left of my motard (and more importantly, got mountains of shit out of my dad's basement) for $800 the other night.

On another note: by-passing the ignition. Is there a write up on this for this bike? I've looked through the FAQs on triumph675.net and have not come across one. I have no REAL reason to do this, except the current ignition has a small piece of tape making sure it stays together, and this would be a relatively FREE modification.

[Paul_E_D]

Do NOT bother the ignition. It's a complicated solution, and the bike is already prone to electrical gremlins.

[JettaJayGLS]

Do NOT bother the ignition. It's a complicated solution, and the bike is already prone to electrical gremlins.

Well, that is excellent to know. Will work on securing the ignition without tape instead. JB weld should do the trick.

I suppose I will prioritize the triples. I'm still going to keep my eyes out on a good deal for rear-sets and case sliders. I hate you guys. But thank you.

[island boyeee]

I beg to differ on new springs and valves for the forks. For our weight (I'm in the 145lb range), the front forks are damn near perfect with just a bigger air gap; especially for track day use. It's the rear shock and linkage that needs major attention, as it is setup for a 200+lb rider, and the progressive linkage is gonna send you flying on that bump at T4! Even cruising Blue Hills bounced me out of my seat.

Why are you changing tires? I went from a 180 to the GPA Pro 190 (albeit the smallest of the 190s), and the bike feels great. Well that in combination with lowering the forks and the linear linkage.



This thread does really have me 2nd guessing my decision to hold off on the triples.. but didn't realize they had gone up to $750!! Used to be $600ish.

Let me know if you want any of those parts. I can also flash the bike for you if it hasn't been done already. Definitely gonna want to disable that exup valve.

[JettaJayGLS]

I beg to differ on new springs and valves for the forks. For our weight (I'm in the 145lb range), the front forks are damn near perfect with just a bigger air gap; especially for track day use. It's the rear shock and linkage that needs major attention, as it is setup for a 200+lb rider, and the progressive linkage is gonna send you flying on that bump at T4! Even cruising Blue Hills bounced me out of my seat.

Why are you changing tires? I went from a 180 to the GPA Pro 190 (albeit the smallest of the 190s), and the bike feels great. Well that in combination with lowering the forks and the linear linkage.



This thread does really have me 2nd guessing my decision to hold off on the triples.. but didn't realize they had gone up to $750!! Used to be $600ish.

Let me know if you want any of those parts. I can also flash the bike for you if it hasn't been done already. Definitely gonna want to disable that exup valve.

I didn't realize those parts listed were for sale. Is the spring correct for my weight? How far off is it from stock? Why did you replace the flux linkage with the Attack one? I don't think I want the GB covers, but let me do some more research. No need for street plastics, and the levers from Michael are awesome and super affordable so I am going to go that route eventually.

As for the tire. I always ran 180s on my prior middleweights. From what I've seen, the 180s have a steeper profile giving a greater contact patch leaned over. Also, since this is a middleweight, the wheel is 5.5" wide, compared to the liter bikes which are typically 6" and run the wider tires. I'm going with Pirellis due to my previous experiences with them. I can let Kurtz convince me oon which size to run, but right now I'm thinking 180-55.

I need to look into the mapping. It has an aftermarket carbon slip on and I was told it was tuned, and it appears to be running great. That being said, I've only had this thing up and down the street a few times, not sure how it behaves under WOT. The check engine light is on, but I believe it has to do with the exup valve. I disabled it on my old street bike pretty easily using tuneboy, so I figure I can do the same again.

This bike lives in my dad's garage, 25 miles north of me, so I am not able to work on it or check things often.

[scottieducati]

Depends where you're going to ride Jay, the 180 is still a better "handling" tire, but particularly if you don't have triples the 190 will slow down the twichiness a bit. Most all 600 guys seem to be on 190's these days at Loudon though, because of it's point-and-shoot nature, as the 190 has a bigger contact patch to put the power down. You do not spend much time at max lean at Loudon.