2000 YZ250

[breakdirt916]

$800 death bike



goal: desert bike!

I'll do the top end/maintenance and see how I feel on it...it's a bit powerful, so not sure it's for me...

but for $800, I can likely break even including the new top end

[slowkermit]

When tuned properly, that's actually a very user friendly bike. A friend of mine had a '99, and it was the smoothest 2stroke I'd ever ridden prior to my 250xc-w. His had a pro-circuit works pipe. play with the needle and clip position. Richer is friendlier, and leaner is meaner. It's amazing what a difference jetting makes with these things.

[Sheppo]

Sweet deal. I would have jumped on it too.

[Kurlon]

You've seen my WReck, it was $700... that is new enough that there is good aftermarket support for it still.

Now, find me an aluminum frame YZ250 that's totally trashed the engine so I can swap my 92 in...

[breakdirt916]

haha, will do

Kurlon - it already needs a spacer on the right side of the rear wheel (aka the "wheel collar") and the axle block that the chain adjuster pushes against (aka the "chain puller")...oem I'm looking at over $75 for those two parts shipped to me

on fleabay, I can get both wheel spacers for $10.50 shipped off a '97 YZ250 and the chain adjuster axle block for about $10 shipped off an '03 - do I just cross reference p/n's - but it's likely they will fit across the years?

slowkermit - I'll try it first, but I was thinking: richer jetting, flywheel weight, bigger rear sprocket, turn the tension on exhaust valve spring 1/2 turn?

[Kurlon]

Spacers - Moose, All Balls, etc sell wheel spacer kits that are aluminum with steel wear rings for the seals to ride on. Cheap, good fit, get the ones to match your year bike. On YZ's always cross reference the PNs before ordering. While the motors have had two generations, some stuff Yam was playing around with, hubs and spacers being one of them.

A bigger REAR sprocket will shorten the gearing, giving the bike more yank, but less top speed. If you want to numb it up, just short shift. Richer jetting helps, my WR was like riding an XR with it's worn out carb. Blubbery all over, but it wouldn't foul and would lug like a... well.. XR. Hell, if you want to really numb it down, I'll just give you my old Mikuni! I'm in love with the new SmartCarb, but I need to relearn the bike as it's SHARP as all hell now.

[slowkermit]

Between the flywheel weight and the slightly richer jetting, (again focusing on the needle), I think you'll be really happy. When you do the top-end, you can double up on the base gaskets to numb it further. FWIW, I'm way more scared when riding 85s than 250s!

[Rada]

Love me a sharp 250 2T....

[breakdirt916]

is there a code or trick to reading part numbers?

using partsfish.com...

Axle Block from 2000: 5ET-25389-00-00

Axle Block from 2003: 5NY-25389-00-00

everything matches except for those 2 letters...so could be slightly different? or are the digits the only things that matter? the fiche picture looks identical between the years...

[Kurlon]

So, as noted Yamaha loves them some parts bin action, shopping from it whenever possible. The PN's you gave show they didn't dip into the bin though.

The first 3 characters are the model code, and indicate what bike the parts were initially designed for. The next chunk indicates the part itself. The last two are the revision.

So, if you've got 5ET-25389-00-00 and 5ET-25389-00-01, those should swap, -01 being an updated design. In this case though the model code has changed, 5ET to 5NY, which would make me suspect of direct swaps. In this case, I look at what the aftermarket is doing:

http://www.amazon.com/Outlaw-Racing-.../dp/B005SUTMOW

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Racing-...-/231169978054

Those both show the compatible range going back to 2002, not 2000. That tells me something changed enough that warrants a different part.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/546...hat-fits-what/

It wasn't an axle size change, so it's gotta be something with how the block fits into the swingarm. In short, they won't swap. In other news, like spacers there are aftermarket blocks that may be cheaper than OEM.

[breakdirt916]

wow...you are a friggen yamaha genius

the 3rd link confirmed it on the head:

Rear Wheels:

1998 and earlier use the same rear hub, casting number 2VN00 on the hub. Uses 20mm bearings. These will not fit 1999 and later bikes because the axle is too small.

1999 and up use the same rear hub, casting number 5ET. Use 22mm bearings. Any of these can be used in any '99-'08 model by using the spacers from the year model bike the wheel will be used in. There are four different sets of these, each matching up with a change in the swing arm. You need two for each wheel. They're the same on both sides:
1999-2001 (5ET-25383-00-00)
2002 (5NY-25383-00-00)
2003-2005 (5UN-25383-00-00)
2006-2008 (5TJ-2530S-80-00)

looks like any 99-01 spacer set will work...I also cross referenced part numbers for the axle blocks and they will fit too

got an ebay auction for an '01 with an axle, spacers, and axle blocks for ~$29 shipped

[breakdirt916]

funny thing - the oversized pegs hit the kickstarter - normal?

otherwise, finally washed it

[wheelieman14]

When tuned properly, that's actually a very user friendly bike. A friend of mine had a '99, and it was the smoothest 2stroke I'd ever ridden prior to my 250xc-w. His had a pro-circuit works pipe. play with the needle and clip position. Richer is friendlier, and leaner is meaner. It's amazing what a difference jetting makes with these things.

Definitely a nice find. My son & I just found a '99 YZ250 that also has pro-circuit pipe & silencer for about the same money... this one needs rear shock linkage rebuilt and shock freshened up, but should make a fun bike to practice motocross and attempt to ride Hare Scrambles.

[Kurlon]

Kickstart whacks the oversized pegs on mine too.

[breakdirt916]

new novice track at milestone!







much smaller than the old one, and now combined with the peewee track.

finally got to ride the YZ250....

firstly - it needs a gone through...there are a bunch of fasteners missing and the radiator shroud nearly blew off on the freeway



otherwise, after re-learning how to ride a 2-stroke, getting past my "arm pump", and getting used to the 250...this thing was a blast...

finally figured out my groove - ride 10-15 mins, take a 10 min break, repeat. After my 3rd or 4th session, things started to click and I got a lot smoother





[img width=800 height=600]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f167/patelbv/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04/CAM00160.jpg[/img]

but you def. have to be careful with this thing...I got confident railing a berm, accidentally clicked up a gear and almost overshot the next turn...also was in a gear higher than expected for the rear tabletop, then cleared the whole thing on accident...crazy bike!!

[tsorfas]

So what you saying is you won't sell it to me

[breakdirt916]

you can have it for $800...but shipping from CA cancels out the deal

tell ya what...if you ever fly out to socal to take your kids or mom to disneyland, send her to the spa one day, and you can go ride this for free

[maxim_X]

Looks like a fun track! keep it up.

[a13x]

slowkermit - now I can see what you meant - 250 2t's don't really have the "transition hit" you get on 80's and 125's....it's a much more even power delivery with plenty of grunt down low that you can lug the motor a lot more and still have plenty of power. Even when it's "on the pipe", it's not wild and uncontrollable

Ha! Try a 2013 250sx... thing tries to rip my arms out of the socket!

Nice score dude!! Glad you like it. When I get my machine back up and running I will let you know.

[breakdirt916]

fo shoooo

you guys gonna hit up ocotillo anytime?

you're only 71 miles away now...I heard some crusty demons was filmed there

[breakdirt916]

rode trails today

before getting there, I was already thinking..."this is gonna suck...this is geared/valved for MX!"



nope...it rocked...put it in 2nd, rpms low, and still able to pull up hills if I missed a shift and slammed it into 2nd halfway up the hill



was worried about range, so I got a small plastic bottle of kerosene, filled it with pre-mix and attached a bicycle bag on the front handlebars to hold it...but honestly, I only went through about a gallon over 1-1/2 to 2 hours of riding...didn't need it



even got to ride it into town from the forest and eat at the local malt shop!



edit: my friend told me he was sick of the dry open stuff...he wanted to get wet:



I rode franklin enough times in the slop...I didn't want to do it again!